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[Tuicemen]

Pi Zero W Mod Getting ready
This came today and I had to run around looking for micro USB Adaptors simular to this:
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Micro-USB-Male-to-USB-Female-OTG-Adapter-Converter-For-LG-G4-G5-Samsung-S6-S7-S8/332533914121?hash=item4d6c90da09:m:mTFbcauLtL3WCZ02WOazvFg
Items needed for this mod besides the Pi Zero W are:
1- 1 Micro-USB-Male-to-USB-Female-OTG-Adapter
2- 1 USB cable to attach the CM15 you can use the one that comes with but you will most likely wish it to be short. I found 6" ones on ebay as well as at my local PC supply shop.
3- 1 hdmi mini adaptor or a cable with one end which plugs into your display at the other a mini hdmi
4- if you go with the adaptor you'll need a HDMI cable long enough to reach your display.
5- A micro USB power supply Your best to get this with your Pi to be sure it is the correct amps and volts (5V 2.5 amps is best)
6- (optional) 1 small heat sink which may be puchased at the same time as the Pi.
 use the above.
7- a mini SD card of more then 8 gigs ( I picked up a 32 gig one)
8- wireless (USB)mouse & keyboard for inital setup of OS and Wi-fi
9- A tool to make holes for the HDMI,USB ports and SD card (dremel tool)
10- (optional) hot melt glue gun to help hold board in place
11- Small philips head screw driver to open cm15a case.
12- wire snips to cut wires from battery compartment
13- exacto knife to clean up eccess plastic burs in and arround cuts.
14- it is possible to power the Pi from the header pins so if you wish to go this route you'll need a soldering gun

[Tuicemen]

My Drumal tool and glue gun are at my off grid place (I hope) 
I plan to make a trip up shortly.
In the mean time I believe I found the best place to mount this.
it will keep all connections to the bottom of the CM15A Case  the memory card slot will be on the opposite side of the case from the antenna.
Use a small piece of cardboard to make a templet.
Where I decided to mount requires the battery compartment lower space to be utilized.
If you can find a cable for your Cm15 which has a male micro end instead of the regular male USB end you may be able to mount inside the case leaving the battery compartment intact.
If you can go this route you'll only need to cut two slots in the case one for the CM15a USB cable and one for the power wire.
Unfortunately you'd need to open the cm15 to access the PI if you needed to get at the SD card.
In any case I recommend you set up the Pi with the OS and HA software prior to doing the mod.

[Tuicemen]

If you got a Zero W with the header and have a older Cm15 with daughter boards you'll have to mount your PI with the SD card towards the antenna I believe. either that or remove the header pins. Hopefully the newer Cm15 boards will allow mounting with the SD to the side opposite the antenna. I opened the case an marked where on the Cm15A to cut and remove the lower part of the Battery compartment seen in the attached.
Also remove the wires leading from the battery compartment and the metal springs inside the compartment.
The Zero W will rest on the edges (1 & 2) 
With the drumel tool the battery compartment needs to be removed between red mark 4 and 3 the plastic pin 3 also needs to be removed.
Next slot needs to be made in 5 post which is level with edges 1 & 2 this needs to be wide enough for the Zero to slide into as well even with the outer edges of the case.
It might be easier to use a soldering iron for this as to not go threw the outer edge of the case. You may need to cut the slot in 6 if your Pi needs to be mounted the other way.

[Tuicemen]

Once you have the battery compartment cut out be sure the SD card is out of the Pi.
Note: I cut a extra bit out to allow access to the header pins.
1: Slide the Pi into place and make sure the edge with the SD card slot fits tight to the edge of the case. With it tight to the case you can mark the holes for the HDI and micro USB slots.
2: Remove the Pi and cut those holes in the CM15 case.
this may require you to slide the Pi back in to be sure the openings look right and that edge of the pi sits tight to that edge as well as the edge that the SD card slot is on.
3: with the PI tight to both edges of the case mark the spot to cut the SD slot.
4: remove the Pi Again and cut the SD card slot opening make this a bit big so you can remove the card if you have to. check this by sliding in the card and removing it.
5: use adaptors or the cords and plug every thing into the PI while holding it in place.
this will help detrmine if you need to remove any burs from the Holes you made.
Use an exacto knive to remove any found.
6:With the Pi in place and every thing plugged in you can hot melt glue the Pi  in place.
Note: Only glue at the mounting holes of the pi board unless your real confident thats were its final resting place will be.

[Tuicemen]

Once your all setup you can fire up a browser and open the URL the HA program you installed on the Pi.
If you've not installed one I recommend Home Genie as I found it to be very simple to install and the interface looks good.
the setup is as simple as cutting and pasting 4 lines in your terminal once logged on
see:
http://forums.tuicemen.net/index.php?topic=1292.0

You'll also want to set your Pi so it has a static IP If not done so yet follow the instructions here:
https://www.modmypi.com/blog/how-to-give-your-raspberry-pi-a-static-ip-address-update

[Tuicemen]

I found and ordered a 5 volt 2 amp wall wart from China.
This is inexpensive enough to attempt a second Phase of the mod which is to include placing the 5 volt Power supply in The cm15A as well. Although you may be able get the 5 volts from the CM15A directly my measurements indicate only 4.5 volts and less then 1 amp so I'm not confident this will be enough to power the Zero W.
Initial measurements suggest the wall wart will fit inside a newer Cm15 with out having to mod the wall wart.
A older unit may require some extra work.
 I'll try to get started on this once the power supply arrives.
Since this is in operation ahndling my HA it may not be till fall before I get some free time to do it.
I don't wish to lose my HA setup while working on this so I'll need to switch back to a CM15 connected to Windows.

[Tuicemen]

My power supply  is still some where in route.
However I've been reading up a bit on the zeros power requirements and notice it will run on 3 volts.
Just how much of a hit things take running on that voltage is hard to say.
I can get 4.8 volts off one of the RF daughter boards on a older CM15 using these, so I may attempt that in my next mod step.
I also read how not having a heat sink on a Pi's CPU can slow things down as it heats up so I added one but have yet to notice any real improvement.
the heat sink I used was the one that comes with the Pi 3B+ Cana kit and it works in side the older CM15As without touching any of the daughter boards.

[Tuicemen]

Eliminating the external USB connection & freeing a USB port.
While looking at options for another SBC to utilize I also wished to clean things up by removing the USB cable which connects the PI to the CM15A and having that hardwired inside. This is an easy to  do solder job as the Zerro has some USB test pads available to solder to.
These same pads are used for many USB daughter boards which add up to 4 full sized USB Ports.
https://blog.hackster.io/adding-usb-ports-to-the-raspberry-pi-zero-c9a50dc40af4
I've yet to do this mod but placing links here till I get to it.
this one shows how to solder an extension USB cable to the Zero and shows the pins in with a bit more detail.
https://www.instructables.com/id/Raspberry-Pi-Zero-OTG-Hack-Add-a-Fullsize-Connecto/
Originally this is what I had thought to do so I had an extra USB port but I planed to go a bit further soldering the other ends directly to the CM15A board.
You'll most likely want to use a flat ribbon cable like those used for PC hard drives.
I have a few of these laying around  so I plan to use a piece of one utilizing four wires as they can easily be pulled apart.

[Tuicemen]

Update:
The mod was done to a new CM15A and the USB data connection wired direct to the CM15A.
Saddly I didn't get any pics of this before shipping it off to Authinx as the Owner wished to have it to show the manufacture.
I don't expect to see anything become of this but who knows.

[Tuicemen]

I had ordered a USB extention hat for the Pi Zero to allow the Pi to communicate with my Zwave modules.http://referencedesigner.com/blog/hubserialixed-usb-hub-uart-for-pi-zero-w/6635/hubserialixed_prototype/
 Once installed I began to look and see if it was possible to add the both boards into the CM15A.
It is possible 
Today I finally took the step using an old case I had used with the Odroid C0 board thus the rough look.
this will not fit in an old first run Cm15A but the latest builds have loads of room. I didn't do the hardwired USB with the solder gun as Yet on this mod but It is on my todo list. as with the first mod all holes are on the top section of the case. However I did file the lower case a bit where the two pieces meet as the rib from the lower case would cover the holes for the HDMI and min usb ports.

[Tuicemen]

Luckily the battery cover hides the multi hole mess .
My CM15A is now Zwave capable 

[Tuicemen]

So today I wired the USB test pads of the Pi board internally to another CM15A
this time While I had the CM15A tore down I took a pic of the circuit board so I could create a wiring diagram for others to follow as well to keep documentation for when I do it next.You don't want to mess up the positive negative wires. Mixing the green and white (D+ and D-) wires won't damage anything it just won't work.
You'll want steady hands and a volt meter just so you can test things.
I provide no guarantee for this so double check every thing a bit to much solder can short things out. So get a good magnifying glass to check connections prior to powering up as well.

[Tuicemen]

When I get real brave I'll look at doing the Zero W Board with the USB extention board. since that uses the test pads I most likely will have to wire to one of the  full sized USB ports. 

[Tuicemen]

I ordered a few LED power buttons simular to this https://www.amazon.com/Momentary-Button-Switch-Light-Latching/dp/B07XY72FVJ/ref=pd_cart_rp_1_2/136-6270114-3390237?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07XY72FVJ&pd_rd_r=d5d88614-0127-4d85-9c61-eb134d00b33f&pd_rd_w=vc0tp&pd_rd_wg=uf0Vn&pf_rd_p=41813bce-bcb5-4cf8-b874-114e182d01e6&pf_rd_r=BW9JX9TN2YVN2926GK8N&refRID=BW9JX9TN2YVN2926GK8N&th=1
and plan to add to this project to aid with power downs. From my initial mesurements it looks like these will fit on the front top right of the CM15A case, and work with both the old & new style boards.
I'll get some pics posted once it is operational.

[Tuicemen]

I added a DHT 22 temperature/Humidity sensor to the Pi/Cm15 with the USB hat a few weeks back using the GPIO pins.
The files can be found here: http://forums.x10.com/index.php?topic=31417.msg186490#msg186490
With more info here: http://forums.x10.com/index.php?topic=31416.msg186483#msg186483
The info displays in HomeGenie for a quick indoor reference even if the values are a bit off.
 Today I added a Pi power button with LED indicator to the front of my moded Cm15 with the USB hat and plan to add one to  my other pi/Cm15 combo at my off grid place once I get back up there. This uses the GPIO pins as well and provides a nice power down option simular to "sudo poweroff" with some code added to the /boot/config.txt file I can also power up
I used info found here https://www.embeddedcomputing.com/technology/open-source/development-kits/raspberry-pi-power-up-and-shutdown-with-a-physical-button
LED goes out when it's safe to pull the power to the pi and lights up when Pi OS has loaded
If your like me and don't have a GPIO header you'll have to do a bit of soldering.
Note: The button location will work for both the old style CM15 board as well as the newer ones